I'm sorry. Today's post is going to be a complete photo bombard. Takumi and Julieta-san and Augustin's last day in Nikko was spent at Edo Wonderland, a sort of Japanese amusement park... for lack of a better word. Though I have known Edo Wonderland is not far from us I've never had an opportunity to go and Takumi had only read about it online and thought that Julieta-san might enjoy the experience. Early Thursday morning the kids said good-bye to Tetsu (who had to go to work) and then I drove us to the back-lands of Nikko looking for Edo Wonderland.
"Where on earth is this place back in these mountains? The signs are here along the roads but why would anyone build anything back this far away from the rest of the touristy places?"
We found out when suddenly coming upon a completely different world back there in the hills. Absolutely beautiful!!!
Edo is the archaic name for Tokyo and Edo Wonderland is a re-creation of the shogunate period of Japanese history when samurai wandered the streets and peasants pulled carts and ninja stalked the back alleys. The Edo town is set in the mountains of Nikko (with wild cherry blossoms still blooming on the hillside) and once even through the parking lot all the CAST (to use a Disneyland word) are dressed in kimono and are playing the parts of citizens living in the Edo period.
So. Here we are getting ready to enter Edo Wonderland. Already the signs were only written in Japanese (rather than with English subtitles etc. We were given a map of the Wonderland that was in English.)
The samurai guardsman let us pass through and then we walked into the "village". On the way Takumi wanted his picture taken with this Nikko character... Sorry I don't remember what this little statue is but for some reason Takumi and Julieta-san were very excited to meet him in Edo Wonderland and we went looking for him...
There was a "shrine" to pay our respects at (as if we hadn't spent enough time at the real shrines the day before.)
And then entering the town.
Displays of baskets and wares of the day. Peasants pulling wooden carts and looking forlorn and overworked (the cast really gets into their character).
The big attraction for me was to have Julieta-san dress up in kimono and there was a shop where one could pick out a style of kimono and be dressed in it for the day. One had a choice of being a peasant (brown and drab kimonos) a shop girl (striped cotton kimonos with a simple obi/belt,) a hipster (sort of an outlaw samurai in flashy kimono), a samurai daughter (a silk kimono and an elaborately tied obi) or a princess (colorful silk kimono with long hanging sleeves and a trailing obi). I insisted that Julieta-san get dressed up as a samurai daughter and though Augustin declined the experience, Takumi agreed to play along and get dressed as a samurai. Off the two of them went to be dressed properly.
Ta-da! My samurai son! The servant who helped him dress is getting ready to present him with a sword.
"Sword. No fighting. Carry like this."
Takumi leaned over to me and whispered...
"For some reason everyone thinks I'm a foreigner and they all try hard to speak to me in English. After all their hard work I couldn't break it to them that I speak Japanese..."
And then Julieta-san came out. It took her a bit more time to get her hair done too... I thought the nice lady who dressed her, doing her best to speak a few words of English, was very picturesque in her servant's outfit too. Julieta-san said she had been given a choice of three or four different kimono to choose from after being asked what color she would like, and this was her choice.
A samurai and his girl!
Julieta-san's hair was done up (she has a lot of hair!) and decorated with the appropriate decorations... Her kimono collar is suggestively low on her back making her very sexy.
"Woo-hoo Takumi! Getting a thrill seeing the back of my neck like this?"
We began our stroll around the town and at every corner there was someplace that proved to be a perfect backdrop for the kimono clad couple.
A back side view.
And a pose. As you can see, not many people there yet but afternoon the place was quite bustling... mostly with foreigners and one or two local Japanese who had brought them to Edo Wonderland for the experience.
Dressing up in kimono is really the highlight.
"Did you want to get dressed up in kimono too, Tani-san?"
"No. I'm the photographer today. But I could imagine it with a friend or two... I'm not sure I'd get Tetsu to join me in the experience."
There were various shows that we could attend though we managed to get off schedule and only saw a ninja show. The ninjas are professional actors that do stunts in movies.
One very nice "shop" was a free shamisen lesson... The traditional three stringed instrument. Augustin (and Takumi) play the guitar and the two of them were very interested in how the strings are plucked, how the instrument is tuned etc. Augustin went to town with his own version of "electric guitar/shamisen music.
Takumi took the lesson to heart and was trying to read the music provided. In the end Augustin, Takumi and the shamisen teacher played a few bars of "Sakura" together.
Different parts of the town had different scenery. Shops, samurai homes etc.
So cute together! While wandering the streets we would occasionally pass cast members who would grip their swords tightly and give Takumi a frightened look or in some cases a threatening look. Supposedly the "visiting" samurai are supposed to strut down the street either domineering over everyone or else being ready to engage themselves in a sword fight at a moments notice.
"That samurai on the bridge there just leered at me... I hope I don't have to go fight him..."
Edo Wonderland does a good job of making all of us visitors feel as if we'd really stepped into a different world.
All three of my kids participated in a stage game... Sort of a rock, paper, scissor game Japanese style.
Another corner was a traditional writing desk with hibachi nearby. Julieta-san is trying to look like she knows what she is writing.
There was a small museum with displays of Edo handcrafts. Basket making became an art.
Cut glass is still a beautiful handcraft.
Hair combs and hair ornaments are intricately hand carved.
There were shows and tea rooms to visit though a bit on the expensive side.
We enjoyed watching a tourist try sword fighting with one of the samurai cast... (The goal was to smash one of the paper balloons off the opponent.
Ah yes... Takumi and Julieta-san finally found the character they had been looking for... Something about a welcoming cat samurai... He doesn't look much like a cat with his ears under that samurai hairstyle...
A pretty peacock adds some color to the scenery.
A bamboo grove that Takumi was ready to fight through. It ended in a maze that we wandered around lost in for a good 15 minutes.
Takumi specifically asked me to take a photo of him in front of this display... A MATH lesson in front of a school classroom.
I guess this is how they taught geometry back in the Edo days.
A last walk through the town before changing back into street clothes. It was a very nice experience and we really could have spent a couple more hours there but the three young people had a train to catch for their next destination in Japan.
I was very grateful that Takumi wanted to stop and introduce Julieta-san to Obaachan. She hadn't been expecting them and was asleep when we arrived but Takumi woke her up and made the introductions. Both he and Julieta-san gave Obaachan a hug and though the few minutes were short, it meant a lot to me (and to Tetsu and I'm sure to Obaachan) that they made the effort to see her.
Saying good-bye at the train station.
The three of them have spent the next few days in Kyoto and Nara and Tokyo and the last I heard they were flying back to California today. Tetsu and I sure had a good time with them all and I hope they enjoyed their visit to Japan.