We had Obaachan's cremation ceremony yesterday. It turned out to be just Tetsu, me, his sister, his sister's daughter and her two children.
I gather when Tetsu talked with the mortuary, he informed them that all the customs were to be done in Buddhist style (it's true that Obaachan has always been "Buddhist" and his sister knows no other customs) so everything was done the Buddhist way.
After taking Leiya to catch her bus to the airport I returned to the mortuary and there was a ceremony (officiated by one of the mortuary workers... ) for placing the body in the casket. Hmm... As the deceased is supposed to be going on a journey to the other world, there was a whole set ready for the ceremony... First Japanese split toe socks which we put on the opposite Obaachan's opposite feet so that she wouldn't return from the dead... Okay... Then satin shin guards and wrist guards which are traditional Japanese travel garments A white satiny "kimono" robe was folded over Obaachan. There was supposed to be a triangular headpiece that we could choose to have tied on her forehead but even the mortuary worker said that most people find that accessory eerie and unattractive so we opted out of that. Straw walking sandals were placed at Obaachan's feet, and a wooden walking stick placed in the coffin for help on the journey. A small satiny bag was slipped over her head and it had paper money inside for paying journey fees. You see... It isn't really religious as the worker isn't really affiliated with any Buddhist sect... All the ceremony implements just came in the "package". The room decorations which included gongs and incense burners were all Buddhist implements.
I guess Tetsu asked if there are ever any Christian ceremonies held at the mortuary and the man said that in all the years he'd worked there, there had only been one ceremony which had been Catholic. Maybe Christian funerals are mostly held in churches?
Tetsu took another night shift that night too at the mortuary.
Yesterday morning I arrived dressed in formal black and Tetsu's sister's family came soon after. We had another small ceremony placing one of Obaachan's nice sweaters and slacks inside the casket and then surrounding her with flowers. Finally we were off to the crematorium.
Years ago when Marcy's mother passed away and was cremated I had asked about the ceremony and Marcy had looked at me strange and said,
"What ceremony? I was just called and asked where the ashes were to be delivered for the funeral."
I guess I've been in Japan too long because I was very surprised as the Japanese cremation ceremony is a very important one...

The city crematorium is an ultra modern place settled in a forest. There is a motorized, computerized trolley that s-l-o-w-l-y rolls the casket from hearse to the building. There must be six actual incinerators (is that what they are called?) and the computerized screen is checked by the staff and by Tetsu of course at each door passage. We were admitted into a stark but beautiful room lit from ceiling to floor with a glassed-in bamboo garden and a small running water fountain that splashed on black rocks. The set up was again Buddhist and after more incense burning and a final goodbye the casket was lifted by trolley into the incinerator (that word again...) Obaachan's picture and the urns were locked-in at the outer door so that it was impossible to have any mis-identification. At this point we were invited to wait in a cheerful sun-lit lobby and given small paper cups of osake which is considered for purification.

While we waited, Tetsu filled in paper work and I wandered around taking photos... His sister bought snacks at the little snack bar for her two granddaughters. I was surprised to see small urns on the snack bar shelves... next to chocolates and potato chips.... I guess there must be people who make a spontaneous decision to divy up ashes when at the crematorium...
About an hour later we were all called back to the original private room where the incinerator was opened and another ceremony could be performed... Do you really want to hear this?
Tetsu even asked me at this point if I wanted to skip this ceremony and stand in the background during it but I sort of knew what we were heading for and I figure at my age I can experience anything... I was surprised though that the little grand daughters were expected to take part. 5 and 8 seem a little young for something so "scary".
Anyway... We all gathered around the trolley and there was Obaachan's bones all spread out as she lay. Yes! Did you know that ashes aren't really ashes in Japan? They are bones! Granted some have broken up a bit in the intense heat but there is no mistaking some of them... and they are all there where they are supposed to be. Okay... This could be right out of a Halloween film...
We stepped back again while the staff gathered up large bones in large metal dustpans and transferred them to a large marble slab for the next part of the ceremony. We were all called back again and given long chopsticks and were instructed to transfer the bones into the two urns leaving the skull bones for last (which staff had nicely separated for us.) In twos, Tetsu and me, Tetsu's sister and her daughter who helped the children, we lifted bones into the urns.
By the way... This is why one NEVER transfers food from chopsticks to chopsticks when eating. Two pairs of chopsticks holding something is reminiscent of the bone lifting ceremony!
When both urns were packed in and the staff had pressed them down and packed them well, we were given an anatomy lesson before packing away the skull bones.
"These are the ear bones... You can see the small hole in the side of the skull. These are the eye socket bones... they have broken down a bit in the incinerator. This is the nose bone, and of course this is the jaw bone. Here is the chin and this is the Adam's apple bone... Your loved one had very strong bones (for 92!) and so many of them have remained. This is unusual because females and the very old often have weaker bones that don't remain after cremation."
I guess we were supposed to feel proud of our loved one's strong bones.
Tetsu said he feared that I was going to burst out laughing at the "anatomy" lesson but I can control myself better than that. I did admit that knowing that no one was looking at me my mouth was grimacing and my eyebrows were shooting up in surprise throughout the explanation.
The final ashes left on the metal slab were swept into a dust pan and deposited into the urn, and then we were handed the two urns that had both been boxed away in satin. The crematorium staff came with us to the parking lot and then bowed to us and stayed bowed as we drove away...
Okay! One more thing done that in America would have been completed with a phone call.
Tetsu's sister and family go to Tetsu's brother's house for a formal family funeral today. We have the smaller urn which we will eventually take to Morioka. Until then, we have set up a small table with Obaachan's picture and urn, a cross and a silk flower. Nothing like mixing customs here. Tetsu laughs and says Obaachan is going to be confused.
I am more concerned that the cats, who used to sleep on this low chest, are going to be angry that it is being used as Obaachan's place of honor and that they are going to knock things over or worse yet pee on things.
We'd better schedule a trip to Morioka in the very near future!