I have been writing this blog post for the past three days but keep getting called away from the computer... I'll try again.
Tetsu
and I went off again to a hot spa... Somewhere that he had found on
the Internet and wanted to try. A bit far... maybe over an hour away,
and up in the mountains so that we were driving through fog for a
time... Wherever are we going?
There are all sorts of
hot spas in Japan and the word "hot spa" doesn't ring right with me.
The word "spa" has modern connotations to me and conjures up Hollywood
stars wrapped in towels. The Japanese word "onsen" which translates as
"hot spring" seems more fitting and as Japan is a mountainous country
made from volcanic eruptions, the core beneath us is molten and the
abundant hot water is somewhat easily accessed.
So
there are man-made onsen and natural onsen, modern ones, public ones
etc, etc and Tetsu and I have made the rounds of many throughout Japan
as onsen visiting is the one hobby of Tetsu's that I can think of.
There
are onsens just down the street from us where the hot water is trucked
in from somewhere and then reheated on the premises. I have a feeling
that some of these places even are concentrated onsens where the mineral
and Ph levels are somehow reconstituted with regular water and then
reheated. I really have no idea but why there is an onsen in the middle
of a booming business area I don't know. And by the way, public baths
of old weren't always onsens though the best ones were... Just like in
homes, public baths just heated their water.
Some of
the "health" spas that Tetsu also likes boast eight or ten different
baths each with something gimmicky like herbal scented or electrically
charged and maybe one or two onsen etc. etc. Tetsu will be happy even
with one of these onsens though I'm not a great fan. Too many people,
too much walking around in the nude between baths.
Then
there are the entrepreneurs who decide that they want a "natural" hot
spring in their backyard or wherever they plan to start a resort and
thousands and thousands of dollars will be spent in drilling and boring
until finally a hot spring is struck. One hears of stories of men who
spent their fortunes drilling and then gave up deciding that there was
no vein of hot water beneath the land they'd purchased and someone else
bought the land for a piddling and drilled a few more feet as a sort of
hobby and finally hit the hot water source. Many of the onsens we visit
have been constructed in places that have been planned and funded and
gorgeous hotels built over them. It must be a great business because
Japanese flock to onsens year around!

And
then there are "natural" onsens... There must be categories even
within this category but Tetsu and I both rated yesterday's onsen as one
of the best, maybe the best we've ever been in. Yesterday's onsen was
hidden away at the top of a mountain against a river and the river was
actually a natural flowing hot spring.
The building was old but oh so beautifully decorated with dark corners, wild flowers and low lighting.
At
the reception desk it was explained to us that the men's side of the
bathing area had three outdoor baths that were actually co-ed, but the
women's side had two outdoor bathing areas which were strictly for
women. We were each given a small towel and Tetsu was instructed that
men were to "wear" (hang) their towel around the waist when entering the
outdoor (co-ed) bathing area. As I chose NOT to use the co-ed
facilities I just took my little towel with me but if I had wanted to
use the co-ed facilities then I would have been given a larger towel to
wrap around myself. Actually I have heard that co-ed bathing facilities
usually don't provide the towels for wrapping around yourself.
"You wanted co-ed, buckled up and face it!" (literally)
Like
most onsens, Tetsu and went our separate ways and I changed in the
women's dressing room and went on to the indoor bath which had washing
facilities. By the way I found this very nice poster in the dressing
room with English instructions oh how to use a Japanese bath...
(Washing up outside the tub, no soap going into the tub etc.)
After
washing up I took my little towel and went to the women's outdoor baths
which was arrived at by a long cobbled, enclosed walkway to a pool
hidden away in a fork of two mountains surrounded by bamboo and low
hanging trees. A paradise! The floor of the very hot pool was made of
loose stones, there was hot river water overflowing the stony sides of
the pool. I soaked and listened to birds and watched a few who flew to
my canopy of trees. It began to rain a bit and I huddled down in the
hot water and let the cool droplets splash on my face and shoulders.
Really, heaven!
Later another lady came to join me but
we didn't talk at all... I wished I had gone back through the walkway
and retrieved my phone before she had come so that I could photograph
this wonderland but alas I had missed my chance...
I
went back through the walkway to another small outdoor bath and happened
to stand on tiptoes and look out the "window" (opening) and down
below... where, low and behold... there were a few men sitting on the
rocks and in the water with their towels around their waists. Even if
they had looked up they wouldn't have been able to see me and as I am
considered "tall" in Japan (a whole 5'3") not many women would be able
to look down on the men's side of the onsen...
At the
other little outdoor bath I enjoyed my solitude again and when looking
at a stone wall next to me found a little bamboo leaf boat that someone
had made and tucked away in the wall. This is a common "craft" made
from a single bamboo leaf which is folded and torn in simple ways and
made to look like a raft. Grandparents will make them for their
grandchildren when playing by a river or pond... I let the little boat
float in the hot water for awhile and then brought it back with me when I
was leaving... (again, no camera with me in the bath).
Here is my little boat made of a bamboo leaf.
After
bathing and getting dressed again I sat in the little entryway waiting
for Tetsu, reading and enjoying the quiet. A wonderful few hours! I
would love to go back and maybe even stay overnight though it is a bit
pricey... Maybe someday when and if we ever have foreign guests who
would be willing to strip down for some public bathing? Who knows. I
might even be willing to try the co-ed bathing area!