Though the scenery near where we live hasn't yet changed much to fall colors, the mountains were beautiful on this trip!
We weren't actually going that far from home and so we made a couple of side trips along the way...
We hiked down to a dam which was being renovated.
And then across a hanging bridge which was actually quite scary. I held on to my cellphone and camera tightly as I sure didn't want to drop anything at the height we were at!
A quick shot of the reconstruction work going on far below.
Okay. Let's get to that onsen! Wait! A trip to the mountains isn't complete without seeing a few monkeys! There were actually three but they disappeared quickly as we came down the road.
And then at the onsen. A rather older one but we were so happy to have ended up at it!
We pulled into the parking lot and were met by a man who came out from the main building to welcome us and then carry my luggage into the onsen. While Tetsu checked in I was invited to sit in the drawing room overlooking the mountains and was given a hot towel and plum tea. Tetsu finished up and joined me and then a Nakai-san, a hotel maid for lack of a better translation, carried my bag and took us to our room all the way explaining about where we could find the baths, the hours available, what time dinner and breakfast would be served, where the emergency exits were, how to lock the room door etc.
Our Nakai-san was a middle aged woman dressed in kimono pants and she bustled around showing is where the cotton kimonos called yukata and padded jackets were stored in the closet, sizing up Tetsu and immediately assuring him that she would bring him a bigger size than the men's yukata already in the room. She also gave me split toed socks to wear while in the hotel and to keep. Before she left us, the Nakai-san kneeled on the tatami floor and bowed deeply, welcoming us and hoping we would have a relaxing stay. One really feels taken care of at a traditional Japanese onsen!
As we had an hour or so before dinner we went to check out the baths. First off Tetsu had asked that we make use of the private family bath, of which there were three. One of the things that make onsens special is the outdoor bathing areas. The air is crisp, (freezing in this case and even colder in winter) but the baths are so hot it is hard to lower one's self into it. Once in though it is heaven to sit in the heat and look at the beautiful scenery around you!
Censoring needed ahead! Close your eyes if you don't like it!
Okay, scroll through that quickly!
I took a quick dip but it was too hot (and crowded) for me. After the photo shoot I told Tetsu I would meet him back in the room after I went to the women's bathing area which I knew would be larger and with more amenities. Oh it was wonderful!
There were a few women already there but gradually they left and I quickly went back to the changing area and brought my iPhone back with me to the outdoor bath. The bath had this gorgeous maple tree hanging over the hot water. I loved watching the leaves flutter down into the water where I sat.
The scenery overlooked the river running through the mountains and little town. Yes, I stood out on the walkway naked to take this picture... When inside the hot water one doesn't much worry about people seeing you and the area is in a rather secluded place so I doubt that anyone could see even if they wanted to... Still, there were old buildings in the distance... and other onsen hotels on the curve of the river...
After the baths (and Tetsu tried another of the private family baths), we went down to dinner and were met again at the elevator by a maitre'd waiting to guide us to our private dining area.
Oh my! Look at all that food! Our Nakai-san was back serving us and bringing us tea and extra dishes (hot miso soup, hot noodles, hot vegetable custard, rice) and explaining what everything was. She also lit the flame under the broiled meat and vegetable dish in that black pot and she removed lids that needed to be removed and said she'd be back to explain how to eat the food toasting in the floor fireplace.
Tetsu looks happy! I actually have trouble sitting on my knees (men can sit cross-legged, women are supposed to sit on their knees) and so the Nakai-san brought me a very low chair that allowed me to stay close to the floor with my legs under the chair. So much more comfortable!
While we were eating dinner, an elderly woman dressed in kimono came in and bowed deeply asking where we were from and if we were feeling refreshed after our bath. This was the Okami-san and I guess that is translated as the owner of the inn. At privately owned inns, a family will often be inn owners for generations and the eldest woman, often the wife or the owner's daughter will be the Okami-san and in charge of training the Nakai-sans, of speaking with guests in a social manner, and of seeing to the small details that make the inn run smoothly. An Okami-san must be able to chat with people and make them feel at ease, yet she must be strict enough to keep her staff on their toes and yet warm enough to make sure they feel they are important parts of the inn and not just workers. The Okami-san told us about the inn, she praised our son's kindness in giving us a mini-vacation and she asked about our international marriage. Very well socially skilled!
Back to the meal... As I've pointed out before, Japanese food always tries to as decorative as the season and there was an maple leaf (unedible) on the plate to depict the season and other seasonal foods. A chestnut there, a basket of mushrooms, a quail's egg that was made to look like a persimmon, ginko tree nuts.
The Nakai-san came back and explained about the toasting food... Can you make out the skewered whole fish there? There are two there ready to be eaten... Whole fish is not my favorite, not because I don't like fish but I'm not too keen on seeing it look at me as I eat it... BUT, this is a special occasion and I stayed in the atmosphere, left my glasses hanging around my neck and enjoyed the fish down to its bones! Good! (Well, I'm sure most Japanese would find this a real treat but I just patted myself on the back for eating it all.) We were SO full!!! The Nakai-san brought fruit for dessert.
When we got back to our room our futon had been laid out for the night. But first, another trip to the outdoor bath! By the time I got back I was half asleep already!
In the morning we woke up to the beautiful mountain and new clouds that were lifting into the sky. Did I mention that our onsen's name was called The Inn of the White Clouds? It lived up to its name!
The clouds kept shifting and hiding the mountains and then the colorful mountain side would come out again.
After yet ANOTHER bath, Tetsu and I went down to breakfast. We were met at the elevator again by the maitre'd and our Nakai-san was still waiting on us hand and foot. We ate in the main dining room and what a spread of food greeted us again!
I loved the little handmade origami cranes that served as chopstick rests.
All that food again!!! Our name at the table. Not only was our Nakai-san taking care to see to whether we needed more tea or soup or rice or whatever, the Okami-san was back asking about our night and exclaiming when I told her I'd already sent Takumi photos of our mini-vacation. These people never sleep!
This was an interesting pot that the Nakai-san started cooking for us. Make-it-yourself-tofu. I think it was a small pot of soy milk and the Nakai-san added nigari which is coagulating agent made from sea salt. She stirred it a second or two, covered it and said she would come back and let us know when it had become tofu and was ready to eat. It was delicious with a ponzu (citrus) dip sauce.
Back in our room our futon had been put away for us again (everyone's timing is perfected) and Tetsu and I went to the baths one last time. (How clean can we get?!)
Such a wonderful place! We talked with another couple after breakfast and they said that they have been coming here once or twice a year for the past 20 years. They too find the baths wonderful, the food beyond compare and the Okami-san and her staff warm and welcoming. We've become fans too! I hope we'll have another chance to stay!
Thank you Takumi!
